I`m overwhelmed and ecstatic about Hedi Slimane`s MASTERPIECE of a collection for Saint Laurent! It is a truly parisienne collection, a new standart, a re-definition of contemporary french elegance and sophistication. Almost every look is a hommage to Yves Saint Laurent`s iconic looks.
I longed for this collection since Hedi started designing Saint Laurent. He finally (and successfully) merged his own, edgy Grunge Rock-aesthetics with the sharp, dominant and classical elegant aesthetics of monsieur Laurent`s Helmut Newtonesque femme fatales! I am so happy and relieved Slimane finally paid tribute to the grand master - without compromising his own signature style.
Prada unveils its seasonal campaign for the Fall/Winter 2016 Womenswear collection by
Steven Meisel featuring twenty-seven top models set against multiple artificial backgrounds.
The campaign introduces Miuccia Prada’s highly regarded collection that takes as its
subject the current cultural bricolage where every code, every style, every fragment in
fashion history, and every personal experience, is equally present and available to the
The ensembles juxtapose radically divergent shards of silhouette, materiality,
technique, and accessories in exuberant compositions: prints, argyles, lames, quilting, heavy
knits, brocade, nylon, illustration, leather, satin, velvet, all have their place.
Presented as a series of rough collages, the campaign evokes the deeply human – and
inexorably feminine – nature of Prada’s eclectic collection. The designer depicts a woman’s
identity as conundrum, an intersection of overlapping and interdependent systems. Every
woman carries on her body fragments of her own history, her experiences, her loves, her
These various references accrue with time, with age, with knowledge, so that each
woman is an ineffable agglomeration of the symbols and indices of her personal journey.
Such symbols find parallels in the simultaneously restrictive and liberating clichés of the
feminine wardrobe: dress, corset, belt, garter, brassiere, high heel. In dressing each
morning, a woman recomposes her unique collage of a life. Therein lies her strength.
By generalizing the message over twenty-seven different models – there is no single face –
Prada enacts her theory of individualization. Each body reorders the elements of the
collection in a singular way. The models are placed against randomized backgrounds that
suggest a radical insouciance.
The settings are interchangeable, indicated by the
placelessness of landscapes. The scenery ends abruptly, the edges clearly exposed: day and
night collide; desert and seascape occupy the same conceptual space. As the woman roams
through the world she carries her stories on her back. In the end, place is unimportant, the
narrative only coheres on the body itself. The woman is the site.
Helena Bonham Carter wearing Giles, London, 2012, Interview Magazine
Swarovski is to be the Golden Partner in the international touring exhibition, Peter Lindbergh: A Different Vision on Fashion Photography. Curated at the prestigious Kunsthal Rotterdam by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, it presents a major retrospective of the work of the ground-breaking and highly influential photographer.
Celebrated for his iconic cinematic images and widely regarded as one of the most influential fashion photographers of the contemporary era, Peter Lindbergh has enjoyed a multi-faceted forty-year career. He is most notable for the introduction of a new realism, which played with the idea of the authentic, strong and self-willed woman from femme fatale to heroine, redefining the standards of beauty. This extraordinary, singular vision completely changed the course of fashion photography.
From public to personal: a photographic record
A Different Vision on Fashion Photography is an ode to Peter Lindbergh’s distinctive oeuvre from 1978 to the present day. It will feature more than 220 photographs, with exclusive material that includes previously unseen material, as well as personal notes, storyboards, props, Polaroids, contact sheets, films and monumental prints.
Haute Couture cage corset by Jean Paul Gaultier embellished with Swarovski crystals
Designed by world-renowned Dutch-based architectural team Mecanoo, the event is set out in nine different sections: Supermodels, Couturiers, Zeitgeist, Dance, The Unknown, Darkroom, Silver Screen, Icons, and an exclusive Rotterdam Gallery shot for the October issue of Vogue Nederland magazine with top model Lara Stone, specially created for the thematic installation. Lindbergh’s 1991 movie, Models, The Film, containing interviews with fashion luminaries that include Grace Coddington, Nicole Kidman, Mads Mikkelsen, Cindy Crawford and Nadja Auermann, will also be screened.
Milla Jovovich wearing Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 12-13, Paris, 2012, Vogue Italia
Four Peter Lindbergh fine art prints featuring Swarovski crystals will be on display within the exhibition and a unique platform encrusted with Swarovski Crystals Rocks featuring his famous alien costumes used for many of his series has been created for the Unknown Gallery. Also presented is a striking ball gown worn by Helena Bonham Carter from Giles, with burnt-edged holes embroidered with Swarovski crystals; a stunningly intricate haute couture cage corset by Jean Paul Gaultier embellished with Swarovski crystals in Jet, modeled by Milla Jovovitch for a Vogue Italia series made in collaboration with American artist Jenny Holzer. The latter appears again, this time wearing pantyhose created by Viktor&Rolf encrusted with statement crystals. Versace makes an appearance in an intriguing photograph of model Shirley Mallmann androgynously attired in tuxedo jacket and pants, together with a gamine Natalia Semanova wearing a mini slip-dress shimmering with Swarovski crystals.
Viktor & Rolf
Curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot explains his concept: “This exhibition presents the unique aesthetics of one of the most imaginative and visionary photographer of our times—not only for the happy few of the fashion industry and the art world, but as celebration of creativity and the avant-garde, with a relevant and necessary message for all about individuality, beauty, ageism and humanity.”
Describing Swarovski’s role in the exhibition, he says: “Lindbergh's democratic vision is expressed in partnership with Swarovski, who have generously supported this project and share the same humanist values as Lindbergh. Innovators for more than a century, their unique crystals will feature in the scenography created with Dutch architects Mecanoo, and in many of Lindbergh’s timeless photographs of designs that demonstrate Swarovski’s mastery on couture pieces created by leading couturiers.”